Gwangjin-gu straddles the eastern bank of the Jungnang Stream with a population density that defies comfortable habitation and an institutional density that explains why people tolerate it. Konkuk University, Sejong University, and the University of Seoul anchor a district where the under-30

Paju occupies Korean geography in a way no other city does — pressed against the DMZ to the north and Seoul's suburban overflow to the south. Tourists know it for Imjingak and the Third Tunnel. Furniture buyers know it for the Paju Furniture District along Geumchon-ri, where over 500 showroo